Insurers assess claims on the evidence in front of them, not on how genuine the loss felt at the time. Strong evidence is what closes that gap.
Photographs, taken properly
Wide shots for context, close-ups for detail, and — where relevant — photos showing the item's condition before the loss, if you have any (older photos, social media posts, etc.). Timing matters: photos taken immediately after the incident are far more convincing than ones taken after a delay or partial clean-up.
Receipts and valuations
Original receipts are the strongest proof of value; bank or card statements are a reasonable substitute where receipts aren't available. For higher-value items without a clear purchase record, an independent valuation adds credibility that a self-estimated figure doesn't have.
Reports
A police reference number for theft or vandalism, or an independent assessor's report for disputed damage, gives the insurer a third-party account rather than relying solely on your own description of events.
Ownership records
Warranty cards, serial numbers, or photos showing an item in regular use all help establish that you owned it and roughly when you acquired it — particularly useful for items without a surviving receipt.
Timelines and communications
A clear, dated account of what happened and when, plus a saved record of every contact with the insurer, turns a vague dispute into a documented sequence of events. This is often the difference between "I think they said..." and being able to point to exactly what was said and when.
Organizing it all
Group evidence by category rather than submitting it as a scattered pile of attachments — it's easier for an adjuster to process quickly, and gives you a clean record of exactly what was submitted.
Sources
Related Kibbo Tools
- Insurance Claim Evidence Checklist — the full list of evidence types to gather by incident.
- Insurance Damage & Loss Inventory Workbook — organize itemized value and ownership evidence with automatic totals.